Keep in your pocket a whetstone with which to sharpen the blade of the knife from time to time. This needn't be longer than 3 inches. It is a simple matter when in the orchard to spit on the stone and to rub the knife-blade on its smooth surface.
When pruning always preferred what is called a fixed knife-blade because then there is no danger of it weakening or wobbling at all at the point where the blade is hinged to the handle. A pruning knife with a fixed blade, however, has to be carried in a leather holster from the belt. Few people will bother about this today.
The pruning knives which close should be bought with a stagshorn handle. This should be ribbed slightly so that it doesn't slip in the hand and should be of such a length that it fits into the pruner's palm comfortably. I prefer the handle which is slightly curved, but some other fruit growers prefer the handle which is almost straight. The great thing is to go to the shop and buy the knife that feels comfortable, providing it is a good make and the steel is of a high quality.
This usually has a blade 2 inches long and a handle 4 inches in length. The blade is sharply pointed at one end so that the budder may cut through the bark. The handle has a finely tapered bone end because this is used for opening up the bark under which the bud shield will be placed.
Once again, Saynor's make excellent budding knives which fold up, and I have one which I had used for many years.
It is when you use a tool regularly, oil it and take care of it, that it somehow becomes personal to you. You learn how best to sharpen it, it somehow fits your hand perfectly, it is of the right weight or it is 'worn down' by your use so that it fits snugly into the palm. A really good knife is a first-class investment.
When pruning always preferred what is called a fixed knife-blade because then there is no danger of it weakening or wobbling at all at the point where the blade is hinged to the handle. A pruning knife with a fixed blade, however, has to be carried in a leather holster from the belt. Few people will bother about this today.
The pruning knives which close should be bought with a stagshorn handle. This should be ribbed slightly so that it doesn't slip in the hand and should be of such a length that it fits into the pruner's palm comfortably. I prefer the handle which is slightly curved, but some other fruit growers prefer the handle which is almost straight. The great thing is to go to the shop and buy the knife that feels comfortable, providing it is a good make and the steel is of a high quality.
This usually has a blade 2 inches long and a handle 4 inches in length. The blade is sharply pointed at one end so that the budder may cut through the bark. The handle has a finely tapered bone end because this is used for opening up the bark under which the bud shield will be placed.
Once again, Saynor's make excellent budding knives which fold up, and I have one which I had used for many years.
It is when you use a tool regularly, oil it and take care of it, that it somehow becomes personal to you. You learn how best to sharpen it, it somehow fits your hand perfectly, it is of the right weight or it is 'worn down' by your use so that it fits snugly into the palm. A really good knife is a first-class investment.
About the Author:
Most garden fruit trees need additional feeding at intervals to replenish the natural minerals in soil as the plant use them up.
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