Orchids can be propagated vegetatively like many other plants, whether from back bulbs, stem cuttings and keikis or adventitious growths. In many cases, the method of propagation depends on whether the orchid is sympodial or monopodial. The monopodial orchids, such as vandas, are those that grow from an upright, extending rhizome, with new leaves coming from the centre. These orchids propagate themselves, or can be propagated from, in a different way to sympodial orchids.
Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.
Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums Sympodial orchids that do not produce pseudobulbs, mainly the paphiopedilums and phragmipediums, can be propagated from a back portion of growth, which is removed at repotting time in the same way as the old pseudobulbs are removed. This should only be attempted when a plant is large enough and is carrying in excess of four strong growths, otherwise it will reduce the strength of the main plant. Most of the phragmipediums are robust growers that are more easily propagated than many of the hybrid paphiopedilums, which can be slow growing, with the older growths dying before there is an opportunity to build up a very large plant.
The spare eyes that do not grow at this time remain in a dormant state for as long as the pseudobulb lives, and they can be encouraged to grow by propagation. Each pseudobulb remains on the plant for a few years until it loses its foliage and becomes a "back bulb".
The plant that has become extremely lit with a length of bare stem at the base srd strong aerial roots along its length, be cut down by severing the rhizome at a point below the leaves and aerial roots. The leafless stump that is left in the pot will, in time, produce a new growth that can be grown on.
The majority of sympodial orchids with pseudobulbs can be propagated in this way, but there are exceptions, such as orchids from the Odontoglossum alliance. It is always worth potting up any spare back bulbs and growing them on to flowering, although this can take a few years.
Do this before cutting off the top portion of the plant, which will not succeed otherwise. 0 Cut lengths of stem at least 25cm ( I Oin) long from the plant (in this case Dendrobiwn nobile), cutting just above a node (growing point). It can take as much as 12 months before any new roots are seen, and this process is not guaranteed to be successful.
Some genera will grow from back bulbs much more readily than others, and it can be a case of trial and error to find out which are most likely to grow for you in this way. If you find yourself with a handful of various back bulbs left over at repotting time, try placing them all in one seedling tray, then wait to see which start to grow. As new growths appear, take out the relevant back bulbs and pot them up on their own. Those that have not produced new growths within about three months are unlikely to grow and can be discarded.
Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.
Paphiopedilums and Phragmipediums Sympodial orchids that do not produce pseudobulbs, mainly the paphiopedilums and phragmipediums, can be propagated from a back portion of growth, which is removed at repotting time in the same way as the old pseudobulbs are removed. This should only be attempted when a plant is large enough and is carrying in excess of four strong growths, otherwise it will reduce the strength of the main plant. Most of the phragmipediums are robust growers that are more easily propagated than many of the hybrid paphiopedilums, which can be slow growing, with the older growths dying before there is an opportunity to build up a very large plant.
The spare eyes that do not grow at this time remain in a dormant state for as long as the pseudobulb lives, and they can be encouraged to grow by propagation. Each pseudobulb remains on the plant for a few years until it loses its foliage and becomes a "back bulb".
The plant that has become extremely lit with a length of bare stem at the base srd strong aerial roots along its length, be cut down by severing the rhizome at a point below the leaves and aerial roots. The leafless stump that is left in the pot will, in time, produce a new growth that can be grown on.
The majority of sympodial orchids with pseudobulbs can be propagated in this way, but there are exceptions, such as orchids from the Odontoglossum alliance. It is always worth potting up any spare back bulbs and growing them on to flowering, although this can take a few years.
Do this before cutting off the top portion of the plant, which will not succeed otherwise. 0 Cut lengths of stem at least 25cm ( I Oin) long from the plant (in this case Dendrobiwn nobile), cutting just above a node (growing point). It can take as much as 12 months before any new roots are seen, and this process is not guaranteed to be successful.
Some genera will grow from back bulbs much more readily than others, and it can be a case of trial and error to find out which are most likely to grow for you in this way. If you find yourself with a handful of various back bulbs left over at repotting time, try placing them all in one seedling tray, then wait to see which start to grow. As new growths appear, take out the relevant back bulbs and pot them up on their own. Those that have not produced new growths within about three months are unlikely to grow and can be discarded.
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